Sunday, 29 August 2010
Thursday, 15 July 2010
To the Arctic Ocean on the JCR
No sooner am I back from Rothera and the GCMS and I are off again, this time to make measurements in the sea ice in the Arctic Ocean! Myself and about 25 other scientists sailed from Immingham in the UK, via Longyearbyen, Svalbard, up to the Arctic pack ice. Once there we set up a temporary ice station where holes were made in the ice for divers to make measurements and take samples from underneath it, other experiments were carried out on the ice, and I made ice cores, incubated sea ice brine, and took regular samples of the air and water.
The expedition was lead by Ray Leakey from the Scottish Association for Marine Science (SAMS), and involved scientists from SAMS, the National Oceanographic Centre in Southhampton (NOCS), Glasgow University, Aberdeen University, Plymouth Marine Laboratory (PML), Montpelier University in France, Vigo University in Spain, and myself from BAS / UEA.
On the way north from the UK we made regular CTD casts. These involve sending intrumentation down into the water to measure conductivity, temperature and depth, and to collect water in bottles. These measurements allow ocean processes to be understood, and allow me to measure bromine and iodine compounds at different levels in the water column
More to follow on th rest of the trip, or you can check out the SAMS blog, which I helped write, at
http://www.sams.ac.uk/expedition-blogs/arctic-cruise-2010/the-people/the-journey/expedition-blogs/arctic-cruise-2010/the-people/the-journey/expedition
or hear the podcast at planet earth online at http://planetearth.nerc.ac.uk/multimedia/story.aspx?id=765
The expedition was lead by Ray Leakey from the Scottish Association for Marine Science (SAMS), and involved scientists from SAMS, the National Oceanographic Centre in Southhampton (NOCS), Glasgow University, Aberdeen University, Plymouth Marine Laboratory (PML), Montpelier University in France, Vigo University in Spain, and myself from BAS / UEA.
On the way north from the UK we made regular CTD casts. These involve sending intrumentation down into the water to measure conductivity, temperature and depth, and to collect water in bottles. These measurements allow ocean processes to be understood, and allow me to measure bromine and iodine compounds at different levels in the water column
More to follow on th rest of the trip, or you can check out the SAMS blog, which I helped write, at
http://www.sams.ac.uk/expedition-blogs/arctic-cruise-2010/the-people/the-journey/expedition-blogs/arctic-cruise-2010/the-people/the-journey/expedition
or hear the podcast at planet earth online at http://planetearth.nerc.ac.uk/multimedia/story.aspx?id=765
Thursday, 20 May 2010
Fieldwork at Rothera 2009 – 2010
I was at Rothera to investigate halocarbon emissions from diatoms living in Ryder Bay, This year we saw a very late phytoplankton bloom, this corresponded to an increase in bromocarbon concentrations in the seawater and air.
I was also subjecting the diatoms to the conditions they may find when the seawater freezes during the winter. Diatoms are able to live inside the brine channels which form a continuous network through sea ice. In the brine channels, diatoms will be subjected to high salinity and low temperatures. There will also be an increase in the halide ion concentrations. I found that subjecting the diatom communities at Rothera to ice-like conditions caused an increase in halocarbon emissions.
I made a sea ice chamber, as there is no sea ice at Rothera during the summer months. Pictures of the chamber are below. Unfortunately I didn’t have to time to carry out experiments with diatoms in the chamber, though I did make sea ice and show the network of brine channels where the diatoms may live. Work continues with the chamber back in the UK.
The sea ice chamber
Making a core in the ice
A thin section of ice from the core
I was also subjecting the diatoms to the conditions they may find when the seawater freezes during the winter. Diatoms are able to live inside the brine channels which form a continuous network through sea ice. In the brine channels, diatoms will be subjected to high salinity and low temperatures. There will also be an increase in the halide ion concentrations. I found that subjecting the diatom communities at Rothera to ice-like conditions caused an increase in halocarbon emissions.
I made a sea ice chamber, as there is no sea ice at Rothera during the summer months. Pictures of the chamber are below. Unfortunately I didn’t have to time to carry out experiments with diatoms in the chamber, though I did make sea ice and show the network of brine channels where the diatoms may live. Work continues with the chamber back in the UK.
The sea ice chamber
Making a core in the ice
A thin section of ice from the core
Wildlife at Rothera
Mother and baby Orca (Killer whales)
Marine invertibrates in the aquarium in the Bonner Lab
A fur seal
An adelie penguin
Crabeater seals
Marine invertibrates in the aquarium in the Bonner Lab
A fur seal
An adelie penguin
Crabeater seals
Sunday, 17 January 2010
Turning 30 in Antarctica
What an exciting 30th birthday weekend, I flew a plane down the Antarctic peninsula from Rothera to Fossil Bluff, and even helped to land it on the runway back at Rothera which was a little nerve wracking. Then we had a BBQ in the snow, followed by a ceilidh in the aircraft hanger – the band played, Mel sang beautifully, we danced, bucketloads of fun. Thanks everyone for the presents from home, the messages, and everyone here for making it a great weekend.
The last week has been full of memorable experiences, there has been lots of wildlife around - we were out sampling in the boat midweek when a pod of minke whales came close, they were curving up out of the water blowing air, it was amazing to be so close to them. Groups of crabeater seals have been hiding from killer whales, skua are nesting on rocks close to my sampling site so I get dive-bombed by them frequently which is quite scary, fur seals are starting to arrive, and penguins can often be seen - I could sit and watch Adelie penguins for hours, the way they waddle along with their arms sticking out is hilarious
The flight yesterday was lovely, flying down over snowy mountain peaks, glaciers flowing down towards the ocean, large icebergs floating away from the broken ice shelf, sedimentatious rocky outcrops as we approached fossil bluff. The depot there is basically an Antarctic petrol station, used for refueling airplanes flying to and from Rothera, a few BAS staff live there on rotation over the summer, and as the name would suggest, the ground is packed full of fossils.
The last week has been full of memorable experiences, there has been lots of wildlife around - we were out sampling in the boat midweek when a pod of minke whales came close, they were curving up out of the water blowing air, it was amazing to be so close to them. Groups of crabeater seals have been hiding from killer whales, skua are nesting on rocks close to my sampling site so I get dive-bombed by them frequently which is quite scary, fur seals are starting to arrive, and penguins can often be seen - I could sit and watch Adelie penguins for hours, the way they waddle along with their arms sticking out is hilarious
The flight yesterday was lovely, flying down over snowy mountain peaks, glaciers flowing down towards the ocean, large icebergs floating away from the broken ice shelf, sedimentatious rocky outcrops as we approached fossil bluff. The depot there is basically an Antarctic petrol station, used for refueling airplanes flying to and from Rothera, a few BAS staff live there on rotation over the summer, and as the name would suggest, the ground is packed full of fossils.
Monday, 11 January 2010
Flying
On Saturday I co-piloted a twin otter plane from Rothera, up the peninsula, to the Larson Ice shelf, how amazing!
The small propeller plane, which is fitted with skis, is making regular trips from our base to a field party who are camping up on the ice shelf to take in supplies and bring out ice cores. The pilot Richie took off with me sat in the cockpit, gave me a brief rundown of the important instruments, and then handed over control, it was so exciting, flying over snow covered mountains, being able to see the ocean on either side of the peninsula, and hearing the weather updates so Richie could plan his descent to land at the Larissa ice camp. The international Larissa team led by Ellen Mosely-Thompson are making cores on the ice shelf, their camp is amazing! They have a canteen tent complete with tables and chairs and a breadmaker, internet and phone access, and even a shower!
The difference in conditions between Rothera and the Larsen Ice shelf was striking, the dry air is at least 10 degrees colder, and it was so nice to stand on proper snow (it's all slush here now). The difference is due to the ice shelf being on the eastern side of the peninsula - air circulates clockwise aound Antarctica, as it hits the mountains along the peninsula it rises, cools, and the moisture precipitates out. Cold dry air then descends over the ice shelf. The team up there were in high spirits despite camping in the cold conditions.
The remainder of the weekend has been spent finishing off an experiment which has gone well (iodine compounds are being produced by Antarctic diatoms), snowboarding (I have whiplash from an impressive faceplant on Friday evening) and celebrating the birthday of two of the girls on base.
This morning I'm going out sampling in the small boat, I go out into the bay once a week to take water and air samples to measure emissions of iodine and bromine compounds from the natural phytoplankton communities. As the numbers of phytoplankton in the water increase (the summer blooom) we expect to see an increase in the concentrations of these compounds.
As the summer season progresses here in Antarctica the scenery never ceases to amaze, this is the view from the bar on Saturday night:
The small propeller plane, which is fitted with skis, is making regular trips from our base to a field party who are camping up on the ice shelf to take in supplies and bring out ice cores. The pilot Richie took off with me sat in the cockpit, gave me a brief rundown of the important instruments, and then handed over control, it was so exciting, flying over snow covered mountains, being able to see the ocean on either side of the peninsula, and hearing the weather updates so Richie could plan his descent to land at the Larissa ice camp. The international Larissa team led by Ellen Mosely-Thompson are making cores on the ice shelf, their camp is amazing! They have a canteen tent complete with tables and chairs and a breadmaker, internet and phone access, and even a shower!
The difference in conditions between Rothera and the Larsen Ice shelf was striking, the dry air is at least 10 degrees colder, and it was so nice to stand on proper snow (it's all slush here now). The difference is due to the ice shelf being on the eastern side of the peninsula - air circulates clockwise aound Antarctica, as it hits the mountains along the peninsula it rises, cools, and the moisture precipitates out. Cold dry air then descends over the ice shelf. The team up there were in high spirits despite camping in the cold conditions.
The remainder of the weekend has been spent finishing off an experiment which has gone well (iodine compounds are being produced by Antarctic diatoms), snowboarding (I have whiplash from an impressive faceplant on Friday evening) and celebrating the birthday of two of the girls on base.
This morning I'm going out sampling in the small boat, I go out into the bay once a week to take water and air samples to measure emissions of iodine and bromine compounds from the natural phytoplankton communities. As the numbers of phytoplankton in the water increase (the summer blooom) we expect to see an increase in the concentrations of these compounds.
As the summer season progresses here in Antarctica the scenery never ceases to amaze, this is the view from the bar on Saturday night:
Wednesday, 30 December 2009
Christmas photos
A traditional boxing day walk - Antarctic style
Celebrating christmas with the girls
Happy on Christmas day with all essential items
Monday, 28 December 2009
Christmas in Antarctica
What a fabulous place to spend Christmas. It’s been a mixture of fun parties and outdoor sports with a great group of people
On Christmas eve we put on a ‘nativity’ play, cleverly adapted by doctor Matt to tell the story of the birth of the savior Shaun the chippy by Mary the beaker. It was hysterical, here’s a clip:
‘Hark’ they cried out, “make all possible haste.”
“For something miraculous has happened on base.”
“What can it be?” they cried, wiping away their drool
“Has John Withers withdrawn the two can rule?”
“Better than that,” the angels replied,
“Oh has that horrible pet skua finally died?”
“Shut up and listen, you miserable gits.
This day a man is born the king of FIDS.
We drank mulled wine and ate mince pies as the sun shone on the icebergs floating in the bay outside, quite surreal.
A morning walk around the coast to look at the penguins and seals, in a dress, was an unusual but extremely pleasant way to start Christmas day; the remainder of the day was very traditional - playing scrabble with the girls, opening presents from friends at home and on base, eating chocolate and drinking wine, followed by Christmas dinner in the festively decked canteen.
I also stuck to tradition on boxing day and went for a stroll, this year however it involved slapping on some suntan cream, getting into a harness to be roped up, and wearing crampons to hike across reptile ridge, a snow covered mountain ridge close to base. Yesterday we completed another ridge walk – stork ridge, which has spectacular views over the ice cliffs, the air was so clear you could see an island range 100 km away. We also saw Arctic turns nesting on the cliff tops, icebergs calving off into the ocean, and coming down off the ridge into ‘stork bowl’ over fresh powdery snow gave me the feeling you get when you wake up in the morning after a big snowfall and you’re the first person to walk on outside, only on a huge scale. The colors and light were fabulous, the hills and ridges of the windblown snow look like white sand dunes rolling off into the distance, mountain peaks surrounding you are awe inspiring, the sun beating down making you sweat at the same time – it’s all such a sensory overload you struggle to take it in. After returning to base for dinner we went back out into the hills to snowboard for the evening – it’s been a while so I took lots of tumbles, but when we returned to base there was a party on the veranda outside the accommodation block so I was able to rest by aching bones in the low sunlight with a few beers.
Thanks to everyone at home for my presents, and everyone on base for an amazing Christmas
On Christmas eve we put on a ‘nativity’ play, cleverly adapted by doctor Matt to tell the story of the birth of the savior Shaun the chippy by Mary the beaker. It was hysterical, here’s a clip:
‘Hark’ they cried out, “make all possible haste.”
“For something miraculous has happened on base.”
“What can it be?” they cried, wiping away their drool
“Has John Withers withdrawn the two can rule?”
“Better than that,” the angels replied,
“Oh has that horrible pet skua finally died?”
“Shut up and listen, you miserable gits.
This day a man is born the king of FIDS.
We drank mulled wine and ate mince pies as the sun shone on the icebergs floating in the bay outside, quite surreal.
A morning walk around the coast to look at the penguins and seals, in a dress, was an unusual but extremely pleasant way to start Christmas day; the remainder of the day was very traditional - playing scrabble with the girls, opening presents from friends at home and on base, eating chocolate and drinking wine, followed by Christmas dinner in the festively decked canteen.
I also stuck to tradition on boxing day and went for a stroll, this year however it involved slapping on some suntan cream, getting into a harness to be roped up, and wearing crampons to hike across reptile ridge, a snow covered mountain ridge close to base. Yesterday we completed another ridge walk – stork ridge, which has spectacular views over the ice cliffs, the air was so clear you could see an island range 100 km away. We also saw Arctic turns nesting on the cliff tops, icebergs calving off into the ocean, and coming down off the ridge into ‘stork bowl’ over fresh powdery snow gave me the feeling you get when you wake up in the morning after a big snowfall and you’re the first person to walk on outside, only on a huge scale. The colors and light were fabulous, the hills and ridges of the windblown snow look like white sand dunes rolling off into the distance, mountain peaks surrounding you are awe inspiring, the sun beating down making you sweat at the same time – it’s all such a sensory overload you struggle to take it in. After returning to base for dinner we went back out into the hills to snowboard for the evening – it’s been a while so I took lots of tumbles, but when we returned to base there was a party on the veranda outside the accommodation block so I was able to rest by aching bones in the low sunlight with a few beers.
Thanks to everyone at home for my presents, and everyone on base for an amazing Christmas
Monday, 14 December 2009
Fun at Rothera
I’ve been having so much fun. Shortly after our arrival on base we were sent on our field training course. This includes field survival skills, hiking over snow covered mountains wearing crampons, abseiling into a crevasse and camping overnight in a pyramid tent.
After being shown the contents of a field medical box to prepare us for the worst, and some basic rope skills to prepare us for the best, we were driven away from the base in a snow-cat (a big tractor). We were taught how to walk safely (roped together), how to rescue each other in the event one of us took an unplanned crevasse exploration, and how to set up a pyramid tent. Digging out a hole in the snow to prevent air circulating under the tent is the first step, ensuring the door is pointing away from the wind and getting the tent setup is next. These big orange canvass tents are pretty heavy but once inside you see why – they’re so cosy and warm! Inside the tent then goes a ground sheet, a small mountain of rugs, roll mats, blankets and sleeping bags, a pots box, field kit and food box. We were then ready to prepare our evening meal – we melted and boiled snow to make up the dehydrated meals, my culinary delight was vegetable casserole. Following the addition of a bucketload of marmite, and some biscuits and a cup of tea afterwards, the meal was actually tasty, especially after a day of exercise out in the cold.
We left some snow in a pan to melt overnight; when we awoke in the morning it was still snow! However I was toasty and warm in my down sleeping bag and I’d had a reasonable nights sleep, despite the light keeping me awake a little (it’s constant daylight down here at the moment). We melted more snow, had tea and porridge for breakfast, and then set off for more fun. First of all we climbed down in to a crevasse, which was stunning. The diffraction of blue light by snow gives a beautiful blue glow, and you’re surrounded by long icicles formed from melting snow in the summer. I felt like I was in a magical ice kingdom in Narnia! Some bits were difficult to navigate – the ice is slippery and hard when you slide into it. We the set off to walk along reptile ridge - a small mountain ridge close to Rothera. Walking uphill in the snow was hard work but well worth it for the views on the top!
Life on base is fun too, we had an open mike night on Friday, I was astounded by the quality of some of the music, especially Mel’s singing! Saturday night is treated as such - everyone gets dressed up for a three course meal with wine, and the ‘2 drinks per night’ rule is relaxed. Last night we had a poker night and other evening entertainment can include snowsports on the nearby hills, science talks, film showings or playing musical instruments in the ‘green room’.
I’m also finding time to do some work, most of my equipment is set up, the lab here is very well equipped and there’s lots of support from the mechanical workshop, field assistants, electricians and science coordinators. Bad weather has prevented us going out in the boat to get samples- the weather is 1.4 degrees, it’s snowing and the wind speed is 26 mph, so setting up some equipment on the roof of a container this morning was refreshing!
After being shown the contents of a field medical box to prepare us for the worst, and some basic rope skills to prepare us for the best, we were driven away from the base in a snow-cat (a big tractor). We were taught how to walk safely (roped together), how to rescue each other in the event one of us took an unplanned crevasse exploration, and how to set up a pyramid tent. Digging out a hole in the snow to prevent air circulating under the tent is the first step, ensuring the door is pointing away from the wind and getting the tent setup is next. These big orange canvass tents are pretty heavy but once inside you see why – they’re so cosy and warm! Inside the tent then goes a ground sheet, a small mountain of rugs, roll mats, blankets and sleeping bags, a pots box, field kit and food box. We were then ready to prepare our evening meal – we melted and boiled snow to make up the dehydrated meals, my culinary delight was vegetable casserole. Following the addition of a bucketload of marmite, and some biscuits and a cup of tea afterwards, the meal was actually tasty, especially after a day of exercise out in the cold.
We left some snow in a pan to melt overnight; when we awoke in the morning it was still snow! However I was toasty and warm in my down sleeping bag and I’d had a reasonable nights sleep, despite the light keeping me awake a little (it’s constant daylight down here at the moment). We melted more snow, had tea and porridge for breakfast, and then set off for more fun. First of all we climbed down in to a crevasse, which was stunning. The diffraction of blue light by snow gives a beautiful blue glow, and you’re surrounded by long icicles formed from melting snow in the summer. I felt like I was in a magical ice kingdom in Narnia! Some bits were difficult to navigate – the ice is slippery and hard when you slide into it. We the set off to walk along reptile ridge - a small mountain ridge close to Rothera. Walking uphill in the snow was hard work but well worth it for the views on the top!
Life on base is fun too, we had an open mike night on Friday, I was astounded by the quality of some of the music, especially Mel’s singing! Saturday night is treated as such - everyone gets dressed up for a three course meal with wine, and the ‘2 drinks per night’ rule is relaxed. Last night we had a poker night and other evening entertainment can include snowsports on the nearby hills, science talks, film showings or playing musical instruments in the ‘green room’.
I’m also finding time to do some work, most of my equipment is set up, the lab here is very well equipped and there’s lots of support from the mechanical workshop, field assistants, electricians and science coordinators. Bad weather has prevented us going out in the boat to get samples- the weather is 1.4 degrees, it’s snowing and the wind speed is 26 mph, so setting up some equipment on the roof of a container this morning was refreshing!
Monday, 7 December 2009
Antarctica Part II - Rothera
Hello from Rothera! We made it after four days of travel, having been delayed in Chile for one day, no hardship at all after two days on the move. Gerry, an army electrician on his way to Signy, and I went for a long run to stretch our legs and I made full use of the hotel facilities – pool, gym, bar and restaurant. The weather cleared quickly though and we were able to make the final leg of the journey – the 6 hour flight from Punta Arenas to Rothera base, Antarctica. We were taken through security to get on the Dash 7 airplane at Punta Arenas airport – bizarrely both ourselves and our hand luggage went through the usual security checks but anything too big to fit on the conveyor belt was just wheeled round the outside!
The Dash 7 is a basic propeller plane with 16 seats and a cargo area. No meals are served on board but there are kettles at the back so you can make your own cup of tea and some packets of biscuits to pass round. What’s more, you can go into the cockpit, and I was fortunate enough to bagsie the seat behind the pilots in the cockpit for landing. We descended through the clouds to see icebergs, snow covered mountains and Rothera up ahead. The pilots dipped their wings from side to side to straighten up for the approach so the view swung around the spectacular blue and white scenery, what an amazing experience.
We were shown around the extremely cozy base, and then taken for a walk around ‘the point’, which is the rocky coastal area. The scenic walk takes you past adelie penguins, weather masts, icebergs, satellite domes, seals, tractors, memorials to previous polar explorers and of course the beautiful snow covered mountains in the background. It really is a stunning place to be.
The Dash 7 is a basic propeller plane with 16 seats and a cargo area. No meals are served on board but there are kettles at the back so you can make your own cup of tea and some packets of biscuits to pass round. What’s more, you can go into the cockpit, and I was fortunate enough to bagsie the seat behind the pilots in the cockpit for landing. We descended through the clouds to see icebergs, snow covered mountains and Rothera up ahead. The pilots dipped their wings from side to side to straighten up for the approach so the view swung around the spectacular blue and white scenery, what an amazing experience.
We were shown around the extremely cozy base, and then taken for a walk around ‘the point’, which is the rocky coastal area. The scenic walk takes you past adelie penguins, weather masts, icebergs, satellite domes, seals, tractors, memorials to previous polar explorers and of course the beautiful snow covered mountains in the background. It really is a stunning place to be.
Wednesday, 6 May 2009
Tuesday, 10 March 2009
Hopping
We arrived back in the Falkland Islands late last week, I kept measurements running almost until the last day of the cruise, I had packed everything away, was really looking forward to my first long walk, and a run along the beach, then as I walked over to close the last box I stubbed my toe and broke it. :( I’m now on crutches and hobbling round at a snails pace and feeling most sorry for myself, poor me. Clearly the walking holiday in Chile is now out of the question but I’m confident I can find fun activities that don’t involve toes!
Most of the scientists left this morning, I was sad to see everyone go, what a great group of people to have worked with for the last 2 months. We’ve had various ‘end of campaign’ drinks and meals over the last week to celebrate a successful cruise. The crew, who've been fantastic, so helpful, have now gone and another team taken over, and others travelling to Rothera have joined the ship for the next voyage so lots of new faces on board. I find myself unable to reflect over the past two months, it’s all a blur in my mind, probably because I’m still on the ship, or possibly because I’m doped up on painkillers!
Despite the broken toe, I had a wonderful day out yesterday, Bruce, Jess, John and I walked through Stanley, the main town and port of the Falkland Islands to the museum, which is packed full of old Antarctic and Falklands memorabilia. An old wooden Antarctic rescue hut complete with old clothing, camping equipment and food supplies was fascinating- incredible that people set out across Antarctica over 100 years ago, having only dogs and horses to help them pull their sledges, with few of the gadgets we take for granted now. Many of course didn't make it back, including all those in Robert Falcon Scott's party who were attempting to be the first to reach the south pole - after months of walking the 883 miles from their winter camp, through blizzards and temperatures as low as -20C, they found they'd been beaten to it by one month by the Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen (in 1912) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Falcon_Scott The station at the south pole, run by the Americans, is named after both polar explorers
Today has also been lots of fun, not being able to venture far from the ship and it being extremely windy outside, Patrick and I made a stunt kite out of spare bits of wood, tarpaulin and duct tape, which, after a few modifications, flew surprisingly well!
Sunday, 1 March 2009
A Lazy Sunday Afternoon
After a fun Saturday night in the Shackleton bar it’s a relaxing Sunday today, a bit of housework as it's Captain's rounds on a Sunday, a trip to the doctors for a repeat prescription of nicotine patches (5 weeks now and the cravings have subsided considerably), and a game of badminton in the hold, which is now clear enough to allow a makeshift court, albeit slightly squashed. After a healthy lunch I spent the afternoon reading the Sunday papers and printing off articles for others to read (the speed of the internet connection and general aversion of printers to do my bidding making this a full afternoon’s job, though it did allow me to find the comfiest chair I’ve sat on for months in the ship’s office – one disadvantage of perpetual motion is chairs locked in place at least a foot from the nearest table) Then a little bit of work followed by circuit training. All in all a very pleasant Sunday on board the Shackleton. Scientific discoveries are on hold whilst the ship is moving in circles recovering moorings and making CTD measurements, I’ve been analysing data which suggests high iodocarbon concentrations in diatom rich ice which is great news!
I’ve made preparations for onward travel –someone in Argentina will only let as many Brits as will fit in one aeroplane above their land so I must spend six days in the Falklands before flying to Chile, I’ll have plenty of time to pack up and walk off some of Rab and Ray’s cooking at least. I fly to Punta Arenas on the 14th March, myself and a few others on board plan to explore the coastline on motorbikes, then I’ll hike the ‘W’ route in the Torres del Paine national park, which provides some of the most amazing scenery imaginable. Then it’s a short flight up to Santiago, and the nearby Lakes District where there is much fun to be had – zip-lining, canopying, which involves swinging through trees on a harness, and horse-back riding expeditions, then I think a few relaxing days on a beach, maybe a little surfing, before flying back to the UK on the 3rd April, so see you then!
I’ve made preparations for onward travel –someone in Argentina will only let as many Brits as will fit in one aeroplane above their land so I must spend six days in the Falklands before flying to Chile, I’ll have plenty of time to pack up and walk off some of Rab and Ray’s cooking at least. I fly to Punta Arenas on the 14th March, myself and a few others on board plan to explore the coastline on motorbikes, then I’ll hike the ‘W’ route in the Torres del Paine national park, which provides some of the most amazing scenery imaginable. Then it’s a short flight up to Santiago, and the nearby Lakes District where there is much fun to be had – zip-lining, canopying, which involves swinging through trees on a harness, and horse-back riding expeditions, then I think a few relaxing days on a beach, maybe a little surfing, before flying back to the UK on the 3rd April, so see you then!
Sunday, 22 February 2009
Antarctica, Halley and penguins
So finally I make it to Antarctica ! We mooored up on Thursday night, at Creek 4, a cove 15 km from Halley base. A tent was set up for me up on the ice cliffs to run an experiment from and since then I have been walking the mile round trip from ship to ice camp every three hours to sample air and emissions from the snow. I have thoroughly enjoyed walking across the ice shelf, seeing the occasional penguin and marvelling at the skies, the cliffs in the background and the differences in weather, which are quite pronounced at the coast. Yesterday morning thick black clouds hung over the ocean to the north and clear blue skies over the continent to the south. Having been on the ship for over 4 weeks it’s nice to get some exercise outdoors too!
We returned from our visit to Halley yesterday to find a group of emporor penguins watching the ships activities. I sat at the end of the mooring lines to take a photograph and they decided to leave, walking down the line towards me. I was soon surrounded by penguins who were close enough to touch, what an amazing experience.
Photograph courtesy Kjersti Daae
Photograph courtesy Kjersti Daae
We’ve picked up about 30 people from Halley, some have just worked the summer season, whereas for others this will be their first time off the icy continent for 16 months. It’s nice to have some new faces on board and last night we played games and drank punch until the early hours of the morning. Getting up a few hours later to pack up my equipment at the tent and carry everything back to the ship in strong icy winds and blowing snow was possibly the least enjoyable way I could have imagined spending my Sunday morning, but it cleared the hangover at least. This afternoon I’m having a little time off, my new roommate Kjersti is teaching me how to knit and speak Norweigen.
Earlier in the week I was taken out in the fast rescue boat to collect pieces of ice and make cores on promisng looking ice floes. The captain himself was in the driving seat on one occasion, I think he enjoyed tearing around in a small boat for a change, and I had a go at driving, it’s quite difficult as the boat takes a while to respond – you end up steering too much and before you know it you’re going in totally the wrong direction. I had also had a go at steering the ship which was great fun, for such a huge vessell she’s suprisingly responsive, meandering round ice floes was a little nerve wracking, the captain took over when we got to thicker ice!
Photograph courtesy Patrick Robinson
Monday, 9 February 2009
Breathtaking....
This evening there's a full moon on one side of the ship and the sun is glancing the horizon on the other. The sky is a pastel watercolour of lilacs and blues and the waves in the wake of the ship move slowly as the surface of the ocean is covered in a layer of greasy black ice. The purples, pinks and blues make the ocean irridescent, reflecting the seldom seen moon, and creating a blue glow from the white ice. The effect is very unreal, but even a skilled artist or graphic designer could not create a scene so alive with colour and surreal. My camera and I can only hope to convey some of the beauty of the scene, I'm so lucky to be here. As I dashed outside just now to photograph two penguins on a nearby floe, one raised a wing, as if pointing out to the other the reflection of the moon :)
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